Finally! A project my 2-year-old understands and appreciates right out the gate. She’s thrilled. I’m thrilled.
At the beginning of the summer, my wife and I were discussing the design of our daughter’s “big-girl” room: paint, furniture, window treatments, etc. Around the same time, we were watching Trollhunters on Netflix, and I discovered a subreddit dedicated to mineral photos. The raw beauty of the natural structures our planet can generate under the correct circumstances came together with the whimsy and wonder of Troll Market, and the crystal nightlight was born.
Pro Trinket 5V 16MHz – Adafruit 2000
Super Bright Blue 5mm LED – Adafruit 301
Blue LEDs are not appropriate for nightlight, so they have been changed to Red. Thank you to Reddit user u/-Fateless- for the info on that.
Super Bright Red 5mm LED – Amazon (You can find them on Adafruit too, but were out of stock when I needed them).
Silicone Covered 26AWG Stranded-Core Wire, Red – Adafruit 1877
Silicone Covered 26AWG Stranded-Core Wire, Black – Adafruit 1881
Silicone Covered 26AWG Stranded-Core Wire, Blue – Adafruit 1878
Insulated Reed Switch – Sparkfun COM-10601
1/4″ OD x 1/8″ THK NdFeB, Grade N42 Magnet – K&J Magnetics D42
1 kΩ Resistor – Amazon
10 kΩ Resistor – Amazon
USB micro cable and outlet adapter.
3D Printer (or printing service)
All files can be found on Thingiverse, YouMagine, Cults3D, and MyMiniFactory.
Color: Natural (for translucency) for all except CN-ElectronicHousing
Supports: CN-TriggerBottom only.
Brim: CN-TriggerBottom and CN-TriggerTop
Trim the negative lead and solder one 1 kΩ resistor to each one. Solder a length of wire (BLACK) to the end of the resistor. Cover area with heat shrink tubing.
Trim the positive lead and solder a length of wire (BLUE).
Do this for all five.
Solder a length of wire (RED) to one end. Solder a 10 kΩ resistor and length of wire (BLUE) in parallel to the other end. Solder a length of wire (BLACK) to the end of the resistor.
Connect Components to Board
Solder a length of wire (BLACK) to GND, and connect the rest of the wires as shown.
Connect all black wires from the LEDs with the length going to GND, solder together, and cover with heat shrink.
As my first step into programming in Arduino, the code is far from elegant, but it works, and I’m happy with that. It can be found either on TinkerCAD or GitHub.
For flashier results, feel free to write your own code. In the future, I’m intending to explore THIS resource recommended to me by the great Nate Philips.
If you’re unfamiliar on how to set everything up for the Pro Trinket, Adafruit has detailed information HERE.
Start up the board and test everything out before moving forward.
Angle the Pro Trinket so that the end with the Micro USB connector fits into the connection area, and the mounting holes fit over the bumps. When in position, press the back end into place until it locks into position.
Press fit the LEDs into their holders as shown.
Fit the switch into CN-SwitchHolder, and press that assembly into CN-ElectronicsHousing.
Press fit CN-Cluster onto CN-ElectronicsHousing.
Assemble Trigger Crystal
Press the magnet into the recess of CN-TriggerBottom. Use a little E6000 glue and press CN-TriggerBottom into CN-TriggerTop.
Light it Up
Plug the micro USB cable into a power source and connect it to the assembly.
Insert trigger crystal so that the part with the magnet is closest to the location of the reed switch.
Like what you see here? Follow me on Twitter @DragonMtnDesign for previews, updates, and to protect the world from Gunmar.
Full disclosure though, my wife and I are expecting our second child soon, so once DrachenDos decides to grace us with his or her presence, I’ll be taking little sabbatical from projects. I hope to crank out one more post before then though…
…Maybe a Cheekymandos Series 1 Finale (hint hint).